Rei Kawakubo and COMME des GARÇONS have always tirelessly pursued never-before-seen fashions. Their creations have sought an unorthodox beauty that goes beyond mere prettiness to sometimes perplexion and even awe. Fresh concepts and novel beauty compel a transformation of values in those who see and wear COMME des GARÇONS designs.
COMME des GARÇONS collections have symbolised each age of its history. There was the “Black Bombardment” age when COMME des GARÇONS faced off against Western beauty. Spring/summer 1997 heralded an atypical beauty through the “Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body” collection. And there were three collections, among them “Monster”, beginning in spring/summer 2014 that, once again, destroyed established notions of fashion and put forth a new paradigm for clothing.
What lies on the horizon for COMME des GARÇONS, and how will it turn the act of fashion creation into a successful business? We asked Ms. Kawakubo.
Creating unprecedented, ground-breaking fashions is at the heart of COMME des GARÇONS. My everyday focus is on taking this one step further. Some might have noticed that our methods have changed even across just these last three collections. This, too, is in keeping with the idea of always pursuing the new. I want to make fashions that are real; things never before seen that increasingly inspire the mind. But each single collection can only do so much.
This is why I have recently come to look at collections as symbols. Including the spiritual, there is something powerful about what a collection symbolises; and turning fashion creation into business requires a different platform, a different compartment. Certain lines have to be drawn. I have created a separation in the form of collections as symbols.
But because symbols are not all that collections must be, my intent for that symbol must be turned into a business concept. Things like sales numbers must be factored in, which makes drawing those certain lines very difficult. Part of making creation into a business and creating business itself is making a number of unique and independent brands that satisfy different desires. Fleshing this out requires building stores.
Business itself is creation. Making a business of creation at a consummate level involves more than just looking at the bottom line. An enormous part of my work is figuring out how to create a business focused on creation.
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