According to Michiko Ikenishi, itochu fashion system co., ltd. Creative Director and member of the Trend Committee for Première Vision (PV), the buzzphrase for textile trends in autumn/winter 2016–17 is Science Creation.
Science creation involves drawing out emotional beauty using the power of technology. By opening up a dialogue to find harmony between technology, which tends to be isolated from the human experience, and creativity, we can bring to life revolutionary and beautiful textiles.
This season will be characterised by producing a new kind of harmony—one made not by simply mixing the elements of technology and creativity, but by having them coexist in mutual symbiosis.
What kind of science creation will THE SENKEN be focusing on? “Right now, Japanese knitwear is interesting.”
Knits are essential for autumn/winter 2015–16, and a variety of new-sensation knitwear has recently been introduced to the Japanese market.
■SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD.
Right now, all eyes are on SHIMA SEIKI MFG., Ltd.’s “SRY” computerised flat knitting machine with loop presser.
Its main feature is its ability to insert yarn into the knit to create fabric textures with decreased elasticity.
By using tweed-like knits and inserting fancy yarn, the machine can give fabric a jacquard-esque look.
One of the benefits of this technique is that it is capable of producing small lots in a short amount of time, compared with regular fabrics.
It has been successfully introduced in Italy and other countries and is used in fabrics for dresses, for example.
At PV Paris, items on display will include the SDS-ONE: APEX 3 design system, along with Wholegarment products and fabric samples woven with the SRY.
■MARUWA KNIT CO., LTD.
Balancircular by MARUWA KNIT CO., LTD. is a new-sensation textile that fuses circular knits with fabric texture.
Because the company’s self-developed knitting machine introduces a warp into each loop, it combines the fabric’s firmness and tension with the lightness and stretch of circular knit.
This fabric can be cut without running, while the shape is also very stable and easily pleated.
■FUKUI WARP KNITTING CO., LTD./ HATTA WARP KNITTING CO., LTD.
Warp knitting using a 3D mesh (double Russel) has been adopted by one luxury brand after another.
Originally warp knitting was used for innerwear and sportswear, and as an apparel material. FUKUI WARP KNITTING CO., LTD., a specialist in warp knitting, pioneered the use of warp knitting in fashionable clothing.
While other companies have proposed ideas for warp knitting since, Fukui’s delicate new weaves and soft textures are highly regarded and have earned the company significant support from a variety of brands.
HATTA WARP KNITTING CO., LTD. is pursuing new uses for the material through the arrangement of knitted fabrics, selected from an archive of around 25,000.