Demna Gvasalia
Artistic Director, Balenciaga
Head Designer, VETEMENTS
Many in the fashion industry said the best show of Spring/Summer 2016 was VETEMENTS. The head designer, Demna Gvasalia has shown great energy and was appointed to the position of new artistic director of Balenciaga a few days after the VETEMENTS show. We interviewed Demna about his vision on the day of the announcement in Paris.
“I wanted everybody to feel that fashion is fun. I am creating my collection to be three dimensional – like creating sculpture. I always imagine a three-dimensional image of the proportion, the shape, and the volume of the clothing. The volume is to show the attitude of the women who wear VETEMENTS collection.
The feminity that I want to express through the VETEMENTS collection is not ordinary femininity. If I use a flower print, it would have a different impression. Now it is not the time anymore to talk about feminine or masculine. I would like to create clothing for women who are independent and have their own opinions. That is the VETEMENTS women.
Our business is very independent – my brother and I are the only partners and there are no other investors. There have been some invetsment offers, however, we wanted to remain independent so that we could create whatever we wanted to. We did not want our creation to be restricted by being a part of the big fashion system.
It will be an interesting challenge for me to be an artistic director of Balenciaga. If I were afraid of the big fashion machine, I would not have said yes to the offer. I determined to try as I was sure that I could remain myself. If Mr Francçois-Henri Pinault, president and chief executive of Kering wanted me to be an artistic director of Balenciaga it means that the maison needs some change. I felt their wish and that is the reason I wanted to give it a try.
However I have to distinguish my small independent label and big fashion house. I think I know the differences and the similarities and I just have to be clever how to work on two different collections.
I started VETEMENTS 2 years ago for my friends, after I worked with Louis Vuitton and Martin Margiela. I wanted them to enjoy fashion. If you felt that fashion is fun through the show you just saw, I am very happy as it was my statement for VETEMENTS.”
Demna started to show the collection of VETEMENTS in a space the size of a bedroom. It has now become a must-see show. With very few words, Demna’s confidence is evident. Feeling the fashion industry could be perceived as stagnant, Demna wants to show the fun side of fashion through his interpretation of his various experiences. He will be closely followed as he reminds us all about the importance of creation.
Spring Summer 2016, VETEMENTS
©Kazuhiro Ohara