1. Triacetate-mix lace dyed with an inkjet (Lily Lace International Co., Ltd.)
2. “AirDye” print polyester knit (Debs Textile Corporation)
3. Jersey with an uneven texture mixed with fancy yarn (Toko Shoji Co., Ltd.)
Cloth converters are gradually expanding their Europe and America-bound export businesses. These companies hold in stock all proposed materials, in addition to materials that are representative of Japanese-style textures, quality, and design. Their uniquely Japanese system of being able to respond promptly to requests for sample textiles and existing textiles is highly rated and is taking hold in Europe and America. Amidst highly fluctuating exchange rates, the business of exporting textiles to Europe and America is developing into a pillar of the cloth converters’ businesses. Japanese materials attract interest Design House Kaze Corporation exhibited at Milano Unica (MU) for the first time in September 2016. Its top-quality, distinctive original prints created by in-house designers have won the support of designer brands in Japan. MU focuses not only on design, but also on printed materials, such as prints on laminated silk georgette material, crepe of wool and rayon, warp knitted cotton and polyester, and triacetate print. Drawing on a combination of various production regions engaged in weaving, knitting, and processing, such as Bishu, Hokuriku, and Kyoto, the company proposes design configurations that cannot be found in Europe and America. With a positive response from influential fashion houses, the company has got off to a confident start in its dealings with European and American apparel manufacturers. Shibaya Co., Ltd., whose strength is in casual menswear, first exhibited at the Kingpins Show in May 2016, and at Première Vision (PV) in France in September of the same year. It has a track record in exporting via trading companies, and has now begun embarking seriously on expanding sales to the European and American markets. The texture of its natural fibres has attracted interest, and the company has received many inquiries about its linen and indigo denim as well as cotton-like synthetic fibres. It testifies that people have strong expectations of made-in-Japan textiles. Converter companies that have continued to participate in the exhibitions have performed well in the business of exporting materials to Europe and America for several years up till 2015, riding on the tailwind of yen depreciation. A number of companies have recorded double-digit growth in the past few years. Uni Textile Co., Ltd. has grown to the level of establishing a yearly target of 1.5 billion yen. Toko Shoji Co., Ltd. has worked with approximately 30 brands in the past two years with a focus on influential fashion houses, and Hokkoh Co., Ltd. is moving forward on initiatives with close to 40 apparel manufacturers with a focus on menswear. The industry was forced into a bitter battle due to sudden yen appreciation in the first half of 2015, bringing growth to a halt. However, the yen began to depreciate again from November 2015, and momentum is growing once again on exports to Europe and America. In addition to the existing speciality materials that each company has, other factors behind the growing momentum are development in the various production regions that take advantage of the functions of converters, as well as an increase in the variations of materials that fuse production region technologies (Kokka Co., Ltd.). Prompt response to requests for sample textiles and existing textiles Furthermore, Japanese converters have received acclaim for their unique stocking system after they surmounted the exchange rate fluctuations, and this functionality is gradually becoming established. The converters have established systems that allow them to deliver sample textiles at any time and existing textiles immediately, as well as systems to produce textiles between several days to one week. For example, Uni Textile Co., Ltd. holds a constant stock of approximately 30,000 types of materials, Sunwell Co., Ltd. holds 1,500 marks, Hokkoh Co., Ltd. and Shibaya Co., Ltd. hold around 500 marks, Toko Shoji Co., Ltd. holds around 300 marks, and Debs Textile Corporation has 200 marks of grey fabric. Japanese converters have earned praise for their prompt response for small-lot orders, taking the lead in business negotiations and being highly rated for their constant stock of high quality textiles in rich colour variations even for basic materials (Sunwell Co., Ltd.). It is becoming increasingly clear that there will be a positive response going forward (Hokkoh Co., Ltd.). Exchange rate levels are also moving along with a favourable tailwind. The respective companies are further strengthening their systems for exporting products to Europe and America (Uni Textile Co., Ltd.), and preparing to develop the European and American markets into a pillar market that is on a par with the Japanese and Chinese markets. Making advances on the development of materials with a Japanese character For the materials for the spring/summer 2018 season, the respective companies have developed an unprecedented number of materials with Japanese character, and expanded the variations of their product proposals. Lily Lace International Co., Ltd., which is exhibiting at PV for the first time, makes use of original yarn from Japan such as triacetate and washi paper, and harnesses techniques such as indigo and denim, flocking finish, and double-sided printing, to develop lace materials that place emphasis on innovative expressions. In addition to polyester, plain cupro materials, and variations of its unique “AirDye” print, Debs Textile Corporation has also proposed new materials such as composite textiles of Tencel and linen, and composite cotton. Uni Textile Co., Ltd. has added to its lineup of thin synthetic fibres plain composite cotton, and fancywork, incorporating and selling pleated textiles sold at a length of 1.5m, jacquard for menswear, and yarn dyed projects. Toko Shoji Co., Ltd. produces a wide variety of composite textiles, combining Tencel, linen, and lyocell with polyester, nylon, and rayon, and proposing more than 150 marks of jersey material with an uneven texture that incorporates fancy yarn, focusing on stretchiness and lustre. Kokka Co., Ltd. has expanded its variations from cotton print, and embarked on the development of materials at production regions that have never been used before by the company, including yarn dyed composite cotton, salt shrinkage processing, and cotton materials developed in pursuit of the ultimate softness. The respective companies have harnessed their quality and system for immediate delivery, as well as the planning and development ability that has evolved through the expansion of business initiatives in Europe and America (Uni Textile Co., Ltd.). They have strengthened their appeal on existing values that are different from European materials, with a commitment to techniques with a Japanese character that can only be achieved by Japan (Lily Lace International Co., Ltd.). While assessing the respective brands and their unique qualities, the respective companies are also strengthening their presentation capability (Sunwell Co., Ltd.), and considering the potential of the craft market (Kokka Co., Ltd.) in addition to the apparel sectors such as womenswear, menswear, and childrenswear as they move forward on a range of initiatives. Japanese Trading Companies Focus on Strengthening Sales of Textiles to Europe Japanese textile trading companies have been focusing on boosting sales of made-in-Japan textiles in Europe. With the aim of cultivating more clients, the companies have been primarily exhibiting at leading European international textile markets such as Première Vision (PV) Paris and Milano Unica (MU). Textiles sales in Europe and America, which was once big business for Japanese trading companies, have lost their competitive edge internationally as the yen continues to strengthen. Nonetheless, as Japan’s fashion and apparel market starts to show signs of shrinkage, companies must once again set their sights on overseas markets. Exhibiting at textile markets does not mean these trading companies can expect to immediately see their sales expand. In order to boost sales, the companies continue showcasing their textiles at exhibitions to try and secure repeat customers, while also weathering the impact of currency movements. Among these markets for meeting global apparel companies and brands, the most popular is PV Paris. Tamurakoma & Co., Ltd., Toray International, Inc., Teijin Frontier Co., Ltd., Yagi Co., Ltd., and many other Japanese textile manufacturers and trading companies will once again exhibit at PV Paris in February 2017. Since the Autumn 2011 exhibition, Tamurakoma & Co., Ltd. has been biannually showcasing its collection of fabrics, centring on high-quality linen, at PV Paris. Thanks to these ongoing efforts, the company has gradually grown its clientele of primarily luxury European apparel brands. There are also a notable number of companies exhibiting at Italy’s MU in an effort to break into fashion’s superpower, the Italian market. Itochu Corporation’s Hokuriku Branch; Stylem Co., Ltd. of the Takisada-Osaka Group; and Takisada Nagoya are just some of the companies that are exhibiting at both PV Paris and MU.
Yagi Tsusho has developed made-in-Japan denim, which fully showcases Japanese technology, as a core product.
As for Germany, which is seen as a potentially huge market, most companies exhibit at Munich Fabric Start (MFS); these include Yagi Tsusho Ltd., which has continued to exhibit at both MU and MFS in Europe. Since around 2014, the company has been bolstering its efforts to make its presence known at materials exhibitions in Europe, and subsequently has been steadily acquiring new clients. Each time it exhibits, Yagi Tsusho receives many inquiries on made-in-Japan denim, which it has developed as a core product. Its task now is to determine what will be the company’s second and third mainstay products. For the 2018 spring/summer MU and MFS exhibitions, in addition to denim, Yagi Tsusho is creating synthetic functional fabrics and knits that showcase the strengths of Japanese technology. The company is expanding its lineup of high-density taffeta – which it has developed from the thread upwards – for use in down jackets with a matte finish, and even thinner and lighter cardboard knits that combine two fabrics in one knit. Local Production Companies Get Serious About Doing Business in European and US Markets Local weaving shops and processors in Japan are ramping up their export business. Spurred on by exhibiting at Milano Unica (MU) and Première Vision (PV), they are working to develop the European and US markets as new mainstays. Using hemp to tout Japanese superiority Hemp fabric manufacturers and processors in Notogawa, Shiga Prefecture, will exhibit at MU. Hayashiyo Co., Ltd., which has a record of exhibiting in Europe and has been working in Europe and the United States with influential fashion houses, will roll out textured and splashed pattern materials produced on a shuttle loom that takes advantage of its low speed. Mashi Shokai Co., Ltd., participating in its first European exhibition, will offer materials using Stretch Core Yarn linen and hemp denim, plus glossy and soft materials made from composites of hemp, cotton, and rayon. Also exhibiting for the first time is Shigaasa Co., Ltd., with its focus on composite thin materials using linen, rayon, nylon, cuprammonium, and lamé, in addition to variations of stretch and foil materials that emphasise functionality and glossiness. They also offer processed materials such as #160 ramie, ramie and nylon, yarn dyed composite cotton, washi (Japanese paper) and linen double weaves, triple weaves, and konnyaku-treated materials. Meanwhile, finishing factory Daicho Co., Ltd. will boost its recognition by introducing its finishing technology, developed over many years. Using a traditional linen processing technology, it will exhibit Omi zarashi, which offers a uniquely fine texture and softness, plus Omi chijimi, which prevents chafing and offers a natural-washed look that maintains its colouring. It will also exhibit ripple processing that uses 100% hemp and cotton for a natural stretch, fine 125-denier rayon filament stretch materials, and 100% wool waffle processing. From developing production equipment to contributing to unique textures and changes in expression, the companies will exhibit the varied beauty of functional processing that shows off the superiority of Japanese technology.
1. Two-way stretch fabric using UFY (Hataoka Co., Ltd.)
2. Composite thin cloth linen using lamé and other thread (Shigaasa Co., Ltd.)
3. Domestic cowhide incorporating foil processing technology (Kyoto Leather Co., Ltd.)
Creating value with cotton and chemical synthetic fibres Many companies and local production areas are specialising in cotton fabrics. From the Nishiwaki district, Kuwamura Co., Ltd. and Maruwa Shoji Co., Ltd. offer yarn-dyed fabrics. Showa Co., Ltd., Nihonmenpu Textile Co., Ltd., and Kuroki Co., Ltd. will exhibit representing the Sanbi district, known for its chino and other materials. From the Wakayama production area, which specialises in circular knit natural fibres, Kanemasa Knitting Co., Ltd. will exhibit a variety of computer-controlled jacquard materials, while Toki Sen-I Co., Ltd. will offer sheet materials with a vintage look produced on a loop-wheel knitting machine that can knit only one metre per hour. From the Hokuriku production area, which has an overwhelming share of chemical synthetic fibre materials in Japan, comes Hataoka Co., Ltd., a local trading company with its own textile mill, Asuwa Company, which offers textiles based on its own technology. This includes UFY, a two-way stretch material using spandex stretch yarn with a triacetate covering that is made only in Japan. The company’s technology covers the difficulty of weaving triacetate and spandex, and in addition to the stretchability of triacetate that was unattainable until now, it shows off the functionalities of double weaving, the elegant glossiness of triacetate, and the contact-cold sensation of the fabric. From the print production area of Kyoto, Kyoto Leather Co., Ltd. continues its participation with its leather print textiles. Using domestic cowhide that incorporates traditional Kyoto Yuzen dyeing and Nishijin foil processing, it aims to capture the demand for “Japan Made” by Western brands. Each of the exhibiting companies develops superior materials and value born from threads and technologies only available in Japan, and that can only be made in Japan, as they continue their efforts to expand into the European and US markets.