Creativity and substance come together to create new values. Michiko Ikenishi, Japanese representative at the Première Vision trend concertation, discusses textile trends for spring/summer 2017.
Back in spring/summer 2015, three-dimensional mesh (double raschel) was the centre of attention as a textile employing new technology. With advances being made in knitting, weaving, and processing technology, three-dimensional mesh has become increasingly refined and more and more prevalent in the fashion industry over the past four seasons as a trending textile.
For spring/summer 2017, the theme will be “Renovation over Revolution.” There will be a shift from the development of new technologies and techniques to the concept of “renovation,” creating new values. The textiles created through this approach will soon take centre-stage.
Ikenishi presents
Haptic, Assemble and Well-performance as the keywords that will carry the spring/summer 2017 textile trends. Below is a more detailed explanation of these three concepts, along with examples from select Japanese manufacturers participating in European textile exhibitions.
Theme 1 Haptic
More and more textiles are offering both tactile and visual textures, ranging from the comfortable and dry to the wet and lustrous. While linen and ramie would traditionally be used for a visually dry texture, the natural or synthetic nature of the material’s DNA is not the key issue here. For example, synthetic spun yarn can also be used to create a linen-like texture. Natural is beautiful, but combining nature with human ingenuity and sensitivity can create entirely new sensations.
’Herbivorous’ Textiles
As with the previous spring/summer season, cotton and linen-like dry textures are a must. The Japanese market offers various synthetic fibres in addition to natural fibres. For colours, washed-out flower-like tones and tinted neutrals will become the leading trends.
Toray Industries Inc: Intricate weaving using microfibres offers an unconventional texture for the lining of clothing (polyester 41%, cotton 41%, nylon 18%)
Saiei-Orimono Co Ltd: Thin silk organdie is treated with a salt-shrinking process for a three-dimensional look (silk 100%)
Komatsu Seiren Co Ltd: The synthetic-fibre lightweight textile Karl Karl-KS offers a wool-like texture. Komatsu Seiren’s post-processing technology can add pleats, shine, and breathable waterproof attributes (polyester 100%)
Takihyo Co Ltd: Shiny and supple high-quality cotton for imitation linen yarn, loosely woven with a raschel knitting machine and then covered with matte colouring to create different levels of shine and a rough impression (polyester 27%, cotton 73%)
Furuhashi Weaving Co Ltd: Woven to the highest levels of density using the common 16s single yarn for both warp and weft. Soaked in wax for a paper-like finish, the material offers exceptional tension and stiffness (cotton 100%)
Fukuda Orimono,Ltd: Co-tton fabric in a pin tuck weave for added dimension. Sun-drying gives the pin tucks a crease effect. For dresses and bottoms (cotton 100%)
Kurkku Alternative Inc: A matte fabric with a slightly rough texture, both surface and lining offering a rumpled effect. The two different-coloured yarns impart character to the fabric (cotton 100%)
Hokko Co Ltd: Cotton fabric with a vintage feel, decorated with modern and humorous prints (cotton 100%)
Aobun Textile Co Ltd: Stretch fabric with tape yarn inserted and cut for a flowery effect (cotton 89%, polyester 11%)
Mitsubishi Rayon Textile Co Ltd: The slubs provide a natural effect, while the weave provides dimension. Triacetate imparts a unique lustre and texture (triacetate 100%)
Yagi Co Ltd: Ramie fabric woven with advanced Japanese technology, for use in jackets and pants. The material is characterised by the linen’s lustre, crispness, and natural texture (ramie 56%, cotton 44%)
Showa Co Ltd: The smoo-thness and sheen of the cupro is almost silk-like. A denim fabric that softens with every wash (cupro 100%)
Debs Textile Corporation: Linen-like and soft at a gla-nce, but with a shockingly different texture. Intricately woven and thoroughly stretchable (polyester 100%)
’Carnivorous’ Textiles
Many textiles in the coming seasons will have a bold and strong lustre, along with vivid dimensions that bring forth the spirit of the material. We will see many textiles that project a vibrant energy and are full of life. As for colours, there will be intense focus on both tropical colours and glowing skin tones.
Komatsu Seiren Co Ltd: Ul-tra Rugano boasts a mirror-like shine accompanied by a lacquer-type lustre (polyester 100%)
Takisada-Nagoya Co Ltd: A hybrid of technology and classical Georgette weaving. The fabric’s liquid-like shine gives it a bold touch (polyester 100%)
Chigasaki Woollen Spinning & Weaving Co Ltd: Triple-woven jacquard gives the material unique dimension and offers both volume and lustre (polyester 100%)
Kawaei Co Ltd: The world’s only pure silk multicoloured twist yarn provider. Mul-ticoloured filaments are combined into one raw silk thread for an exquisite impression (silk 100%)
Yagi Tsusho Ltd: Foil prints on knitted fabric for a shattered mirror effect (rayon 70%, polyester 30%)
Mitsuboshi Keito: A kanoko weave using extra-long cotton. The material has been mercerised for a silky effect, adding a modish look to an otherwise casual fabric (cotton 100%)
Debs Textile Corporation: The vintage processing of this double satin bestows a softness to the fabric’s core, creating a draped and elegant touch with an exquisite shine (polyester 100%)
Tsuboyoshi Orimono Co Ltd: This material uses film for the warp and silk for the weft, for a translucent effect. Washer effect pro-cessing is used to create a creased finish