“Most Creative Designer Rankings” as determined by influential Japanese stores

According to the “Most Creative and Trend-Setting Contemporary Designer Rankings” as determined by buyers from influential specialty stores in Japan and directors of department stores, the rankings of international brands has seen dramatic changes. Gucci and Vetements have appeared on the rankings for the first time following strong 2016 spring/summer and 2016 pre-fall collections.

Gucci ranked second for womenswear and fifth for menswear. The revitalisation of Gucci, led by Alessandro Michele, was highly appraised in the rankings.

Comments given by the judges included, “Michele has maintained Gucci’s traditional strengths, while at the same time doing a fantastic job of creating a brand new style;” “We look forward to being presented with ever more innovative ‘genderless’ ideas;” “The sophisticated combination of dramatic colours and patterns make for breath-taking collections;” “The retro and romantic collections were a breath of fresh air.”

The collections incorporated the antique aesthetic that Michele is renowned for, while also exuding a real sense of joy. One comment that stood out was that the collections “reminded [the buyer] of the joy that fashion can bring.”

The vitality of Vetements is also noteworthy. The label has enjoyed much attention lately as an influential up-and-comer, and its powerful 2016 spring/summer collection has become a hot topic. The appointment of Vetements’s head as Balenciaga’s artistic director has also helped bring the brand further into the spotlight.

Comments like the following suggest that many buyers sensed the coming of a new age: “The impact of the runway, items with inestimable value—these are definitely not clothes that can be worn by just anybody. I was blown away by the aggressive ideas being presented;” “The impact is being felt in the trends of minimal and effortless fashion.” Buyers are also excited to see how Vetements’s street and underground aesthetic will be captured by Balenciaga.

In the international category, the top spots continue to be occupied by Céline for womenswear, and Saint Laurent for menswear. However, unlike the situation to date where they have left their competitors far behind, the votes were distributed among other brands such as Gucci, Vetements, Loewe, and J.W. Anderson.

In the domestic category, the usual brands such as sacai, kolor, mame, and TOGA continued to place at the top.

New brands that ranked high in the womenswear department included ELIN, designed by Miho Enomoto, who has had many years of experience as a buyer, as well as MADISONBLUE produced by stylist Mariko Nakayama.

In menswear, ISSEY MIYAKE MEN, designed by Yusuke Takahashi, appeared in the rankings for the first time.

■ Stores that participated in the survey

ADELAIDE／ADDITION ADELAIDE／AMERICAN RAG CIE／AQUAGIRL／BEAMS／BOLS 1987／CONCENTO PARIS H.P.FRANCE／CROON A SONG／DAIMARU MATSUZAKAYA DEPARTMENT STORES／DESIGNWORKS／DEUXIEME CLASSE／ESTNATION／HANKYU HANSHIN DEPARTMENT STORES／INTERNATIONAL GALLERY BEAMS／ISETAN MITSUKOSHI／MATSUYA／MARTINIQUE／OPENING CEREMONY／PARIGOT／PENDULE VIA BUS STOP／RAY BEAMS／RESTIR／RON HERMAN／SOGO&SEIBU／SUPER A MARKET／TAKASHIMAYA／THE SECRET CLOSET／TOMORROWLAND／UNITED ARROWS／VIA BUS STOP